German chef Olivier Elzer knew he wanted to be a chef since childhood. His mother ran a restaurant in Nice, France, and Elzer jumped at the opportunity to learn the ropes at an early age. Since then, he’s gone from strength to strength, accumulating a world of experience in top-notch kitchens, including Seasons by Olivier E, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong andPierre (now closed) at Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Hong Kong.
These days, Elzer finds himself in the cockpit at L’Envol, meaning “the flight,” at The St. Regis Hong Kong — and it couldn’t be a more perfect fit. The ambitious chef takes modern French cuisine to new heights in a polished, cream-toned setting by acclaimed Hong Kong designer André Fu that instantly puts you at ease.
From the warm service to meticulous dishes to the luxurious atmosphere, L’Envol is a worthy destination for lingering lunches and special occasions alike.
- L’Envol’s clean, modern design will calm even the most restless of minds. As soon as you turn the corner, the first of two spacious dining salons embraces you with extra-high ceilings, a large open kitchen, champagne-hued interiors, splashes of gold, light-wood herringbone floors and gleaming marble tables.
- Delivering superlative service and genuine warmth, the white-gloved servers and sommelier glide from table to table, carefully timing the moment they set down new wine glasses or take away plates. It’s as though everyone in the room shares a rhythm and pace.
- Elzer’s dishes have been organized into a refreshingly flexible collection of set menus. Sample chef’s tried-and-true favorites with the Signature eight-course menu; try his latest whims and seasonal innovations in the five-course Decouverte menu; or mix and match with the three- to five-course Allure menu.
- Oenophiles are in the best of hands with restaurant director and chief sommelier Tristan Pommier leading the wine program. Having handpicked more than 800 wine and champagne labels for the cellar, Pommier does not just recommend ideal pairings — he also tells you the story behind each bottle for a truly rewarding experience.
- The restaurant’s accoutrements are just as impressive as the main dishes, especially the housemade sourdough (made with a mix of rye and wheat flour for an extra sour flavor); champagne-infused butter, served on chilled marble slabs; and swoon-worthy cheese cart, stacked with 15 French selections.
- The dress code at L’Envol is smart casual.
- Elzer’s attention to detail is readily apparent in every dish, evidenced by meticulously prepared ingredients and memorable presentations. Take the Hokkaido sea urchin starter: Served in a glamorous caviar box with a mother-of-pearl caviar spoon, the dish showcases carefully aligned strips of urchin atop a bed of prawns and crunchy fennel.
- La Crevette carabineros — charcoaled grilled carabineros shrimp with black pudding and smoked salt butter — on the Signature menu is another highlight. Our server advised us to start by the tail and work our way up to the rich, juicy head to ensure the flavor progresses as chef Elzer intended.
- Meat lovers will appreciate the trio of perfect bites in the Le Boeuf en Trois Facons (or “beef three ways”). The delicious, carnivorous journey begins with caviar-topped tartare, then tenderloin and finally beef cheek.
- Dessert at the Hong Kong restaurant runs the gamut from rich, nutty, chocolate-based finales to zesty, refreshing treats. The Japanese Shizuoka muskmelon mousse with rum and mojito granite is a favorite, offering just the right balance of tart and sweet to finish the meal on a light note.
- Just be sure to save room for the petit four trolley: A white-gloved server will roll this beauty up to your table, offering a choice of at least 10 sweets, such as citrus macarons, yuzu opera cake, dark chocolate bites, housemade marshmallows, cherry tart and more.
